My Workbench

This page will be continually evolving. Primarily, I will be documenting the stuff that I use at my workbench. Although, I may share items that I’ve heard about from my fellow builders. I’ll also include some Next Level sections with gear that more advanced hobbyists or those with more resources may want to consider.

Meters

• The DSO5102P has a good balance of features and price for starter scope. That’s why I picked up one for my use.
• I chose the nooelec nanoVNA because Nooelec is listed as an official distributor on the nanoVNA project source code website. This specific package also includes an attenuator set and other extra accessories.
• I use some SMA-BNC pigtail adapter cables with the nanoVNA The intent is to take some strain off of the nanoVNA. Also, since I focused on QRP operation, I use BNC connectors extensively.
• The Fluke 8010A Digital Multimeter (DMM) is good entry level bench meter (I found one on eBay)
• I have a pocket parts tester similar to the one above. I use this little tester all the time for checking resistors, capacitors, and inductors. It will also check diodes and transistors. You’ll still need a decent DMM for voltage. You may want to try a hand held DMM.
• I have been tempted to pick up one of these pocket pen style DMM

Next Level Meters

Spectrum Analyzers

While the tinySA is an attractive option radio amateurs will quickly find that the RBW isn’t narrow enough for their applications.

• Siglent Technologies SSA3021X-TG
• Siglent Technologies SSA3032X

Scopes

With these scopes you’ll find higher frequency range, more channels and logic capture.

• Siglent SDS1202X-E goes up to 200Mhz
• Siglent SDS1204X-E 4 channel scope up to 200Mhz
• Rigol MSO5354 LA 4 channel scope with logic probe

Digital Multi Meters

You’ll find more precision and a greater range of operation with these bench meters

• Siglent Technologies SDM3055
• Siglent Technologies SDM3065X
• Fluke 8845A

Equipment

• I have been very impressed with the CO-Z 8586 rework station Besides SMD work, the hot air side does a great job with heat shrink tubing. The hot air can be mounted on either side of the main unit. This model also uses connectors for hot air and irons making replacement easier. The only thing I was disappointed by was the soldering iron stand. For me, it felt light, weak and exposed. I promptly replaced it with the Hakko 633 stand The Hakko stand is solid and feels much safer. I’d been using the wet sponge for years. The waterless cleaner is very nice. I feel like it does a better job of cleaning the tip.
• I have since upgraded to a Hakko FX-951 soldering station. It has a much faster heat up time and better temperature control than the CO-Z 8586. I also like the fact that it uses a standard connector for the iron. This makes replacement easier and opens up the possibility of using different irons with the same station. The FX-951 is now out of production and has been replaced by the Hakko FX-971 which has a similar design and features.
• For Hot air work, I’ve switched to the Prostormer Hot Air Rework Station It has a much more powerful hot air blower than the CO-Z 8586. The blower is also quieter and has a more precise temperature control. The only downside is that it doesn’t have a built in soldering iron like the CO-Z 8586. However, I find that I don’t miss it since I have the Hakko FX-951 soldering station.
• Desoldering tools are a nice to have. I have recently picked up a powered one but haven’t had a chance to use it yet. In the mean time, I’m using a manual solder sucker and solder wick. I have found that the solder wick works much better if you put some solder on your iron tip to start things going. If that doesn’t help, you may need to try a better rated wick. Or try putting some flux on the part you are trying to desolder.
• I have found lots of application for this variable DC power supply from TackLife It is often on sale or has a coupon with it.
• I used a headband magnifier similar to this one. There are many options available. Since I wear glasses, I find the band style more comfortable.
• When it comes to SMD work, fine work, or board inspection, I bust out the digital microscope It has a high level of magnification and a narrow manually adjusted focal length.
• I use an LED lamp similar to this one to direct the light right on my work
• I have a FeelElec FY6900 function generator with counter. I plan to eventually replace the power supply in it with one that was developed on the web. I’ll also add a fan to it.

Next Level Equipment

• Siglent Technologies SDG2042X Arbitrary Waveform Function-Generators
• Siglent Technologies SPD3303X-E Triple Output Power Supply

Hand tools

• Crimping kit with Dupont connectors
• Stainless steel tweezers with ceramic tips
• “third hand” These often come with a fairly useless magnifying glass that gets in the way. Take off the magnifying glass and use it by hand when needed.
• PCB holder. Swivel function that lets you check the front of the board and work on the back is what you need.
• mini plier set
• This soldering tool kit includes a solder sucker, flush cutters, tweezers, solder removal tools, and solder wick similar to what I use
• Numerous small screw drivers
• Dental picks similar to these

Breadboard

Supplies

• Solder, Multicore 5 core, 63/37, Sn63Pb37, 0.022" (0.56mm) This is a fine solder that can be a little pricey. I picked up a 500G spool and have been using it for many years. Today, I’d probably pick up this Kester 44 Solder
• Solder wick - If you get a wick and it doesn’t work well, try putting some solder on your iron tip to start things going. If that doesn’t help, you may need to try a better rated wick Watch the shipping charges on this page!.
• If you do get into SMD work, you’ll want to pick up a flux pen or flux paste. You will likely want to wash your board if you use them.
• Chip Quick for SMD work
• BNTECHGO 22 AWG Magnet wire
• DeoxIT for cleaning electrical connections/wipers

Battery Chargers and Power Supplies

There are a great variety of battery capacity checkers and chargers out there. I like the compact digital battery capacity checker and the HTRC LiPo 2S/3S charger for compact travel gear.

The battery charger I use is a version prior to the one listed above.

LiFePO4 Batteries

I use a Bioenno 12V 12Ah when I want to operate portable with my Yaesu FT-891. The battery is in an enclosure from Portable Zero. Now they are making a nice enclosure that will hold 2 6Ah batteries and mates directly to the FT-891.

A friend recently picked up a nice compact 8Ah.

LiPO Batteries

Typically, I operate QRP portable. That is why I have opted for 3S1P batteries. They provide enough voltage and capacity for the miserly needs of many QRP radios.

NiMH Batteries

Besides using in an external case 8AA case with switch, I use the Eneloop NiMH batteries in my Elecraft KX3.

Parts Organization

You can make use of egg cartons, yogurt containers, or tackle boxes for parts organization.

Utilize can “flats” to keep small parts organized and easily accessible while working on a project. You can even stick components with leads into the sides of the flat.

Also, magnet parts trays are great for keeping small parts from getting lost.

Kit Ideas and Resources

Kit Resources

• 4SQRP Kits

  • A variety of kits for QRP builders.
  • Dummy load kit, keys, and Crickets are good starter kits.
  • Great T-Match tuner kit. Check out my build of a similar T-Match tuner.

• Pacific Antenna Kits

  • Easy Low Pass Filter Kit
  • Attenuator Kits
  • EFHW Match Kit (SOTA Tuner)
  • Code Practice Oscillator Kit

• 20m/40m antenna kit

• QRP Labs Kits

  • QCX+ - A popular single band CW transceiver kit in a big case, more room to work and add mods. Then can graduate to QCX Mini, then QMX+, and QMX Mini.

• Pacific Antenna Kits

  • Easy Low Pass Filter Kit
  • Dummy Load Kit
  • Attenuator Kits
  • EFHW Match Kit (SOTA Tuner)
  • Z-Match Tuner Kit (BLT+)
  • Code Practice Oscillator Kit
  • 20m/40m antenna kit

• HamGadgets Kits

  • Ultra Pico Keyer Kit

• N6ARA has some nice kits available. He also has a YouTube channel with build videos for his kits and other projects.

• K6ARK designs really tiny stuff. He has a YouTube channel with build videos for his kits and other projects.

• Amazon has a variety of kits available. Search for “solder practice kit”. I’ve built retro style handheld game and a “Christmas tree” kit. They are fun and a good way to practice soldering.

T-Match Tuner

The Kit

This manual T-match tuner kit came to me via Amazon. It is also available via eBay and other online stores.

You build this kit into the bottom of the enclosure that is provided. I opted to build it into a 40 x 100 x 110mm aluminum enclosure. Around the machine bolt areas coating was removed to ensure the entire case is bonded together. During assembly, I bolted the main front panel and back panel together.

Don’t trust the sticker guides in the kit. Figuring out how to align them can be tricky with the default case internal structure. Size and locations may not match the hardware. A big gotcha can be the screws that hold on the polyvaricons (printed holes too big).

The board does not have through hole plating.

There is one capacitor that is provided for the N7VE tuning circuit. Make sure to check its value. Mine was out of spec by 50%! I replaced it from parts on hand.

The circuit diagram for the N7VE transformer is correct. However, the board is incorrectly labeled. 2T on primary, 5T on secondary.

Check that the provided enamel coated wire is of the correct size 22 AWG.

The knobs and hardware for the polyvaricons are awful. Plan on doing something different. Again, I pulled from parts on hand for shaft exentions and knobs.

Inductor taps

The 4S QRP T-match kit instructions tell you to do taps with the following number of turns: 1,1,1, 2,2,2, 2,2,2, 2,2,2.

Default instructions see the circuit diagram in the marcel wiki page give a sequence of turns starting 10,2,3,2,…

The correct way is to flip the order: 1,2,2,2,4,2,3,3,2,3,2,10

Why? Otherwise, your first turn is 10 turns. This is way too much.

What’s the benefit of this sequence. Fine tuning at the start for when you are using an antenna like a dipole or end fed half wave. Bigger jumps to get you into the 40m band when using an end fed random wire. And a really big jump at the end to help get you to 160m.

Build tips

Besides removing case coating from where it goes together, I also remove it where the BNCs were installed. There was good continuity between the BNC shield/ground side. However, for clarity I went ahead and connected the ground tabs together.

The switch and inductor:

• Ground side wire (grey) is connected to the center of the switch before connecting the toroid.
• Pre-tin the leads on the switch.
• Prep toroid taps by scraping insulation and melting away coating with solder.
• Check even length of leads on the toroid before soldering with switch
  • This is one reason why 4S QRP kit approach may be better.
• Start by soldering the taps for 1, 12, and 11. This helps with holding the ends in place as well as keeping the 10 Turn section reigned in.
• Check clearance of toroid on the switch with the case before soldering.

The 4S QRP instructions tell you to set the polyvaricons to minimum. I didn’t do that.

Using the T-Match

The procedure:

• Tune to the desired frequency.
• Start with inductor at minimum, transceiver cap and antenna cap at mid position.
• Adjust inductor for maximum noise.
• Start with antenna side cap adjusting for maximum noise, then transceiver side.
• Flip the Tune/Transmit switch to Tune.
• Key the transceiver and adjust capacitors to the dimmest LED showing possible.
  • DO NOT switch the inductor setting while transmitting.
• Stop transmitting. If you were not able to get a good match try reducing or increasing inductance and repeat the tuning procedure.
• Once you are satisfied, return the Tune/Transmit switch to Transmit.

My antenna is 9:1 unun, ~58’ end fed random wire, with an elevated radial that is ~17’ long to a 20m trap, then another 18'.

With this tuner and my antenna configuration I was able to get matches on all bands 10m-160m.

See the information on multiple ways to tune.

Final thoughts

I’m tempted to build one of these again. What would I do differently? I’d probably use the internals from a 4S QRP kit. The 12 position switch is much nicer mechanically to work with. I like the idea of a red LED diminishing as a green LED brightens for tuning. The shaft extensions for the polyvaricons and the accompanying knobs in the 4S kit are much better.

I do like the case and arrangement I used. I would need to construct something to implement the 2 color tune indicator.

Maybe, just build the 4S QRP kit, use the alternate number of turns and case mounted BNCs.

Resource links

• KP4MD video on how to assemble
• Assembly video with inductor error
• Marcel wiki page with inductor error
• 77dianzi.taobao.com guide
• 4S QRP T-Match tuner manual

2024 EFHW Transformer

Components

• 2024 EFHW Transformer board
• 2 FT82-43 toroids
• 44" of 22AWG enamel coated wire
• 1KV 100pF Capacitor
• 2 zip ties

Tools

• flush cutters
• mini pliers
• utility knife
• ruler
• soldering iron, set to 350C
• ceramic tip reverse tweezers (optional)
• spudger
• heat safe work surface (or board holder)

Instructions

Resist the urge to follow the convention of installing small components first!

By delaying the placement of the capacitor we’ll be able to do some test checks and give ourselves some more room to work.

• Double Stack
• Single toroid
• Shared Ground
• Theory

2024 EFRW Transformer

Components

• Bare PCB
• BNC connector
• Toroid T94-6
• 48" of 22AWG enamel coated wire

Tools

• flush cutters
• mini pliers
• utility knife
• ruler
• soldering iron, set to 350C
• spudger
• heat safe work surface (or board holder)

Instructions

Winding the toroid

We will construct a 12 Turn trifilar winding.

1. Cut the enamel coated wire into 3 equal lengths of 16". These will be your winding wires.
2. Take one length of wire, bend it in half to create a U shape.
3. Hook this U shape over the toroid to start your winding.
4. Wind each half of the wire around the toroid.
   • Each pass of the wire through the toroid counts as 1 turn.
   • You want 12 turns around the toroid with each wire.
   • Be careful to not scrape off enamel coating when pulling the wire through the toroid.
   • Press the wire tightly against the toroid.
5. Repeat the above process for each of the two remaining wires.
   • These wires should be wound between the turns of the previous wire(s).
   • Do not cross the wires over each other. Each wire should have its own separate, parallel path around the toroid.
6. Once all wires are wound, double-check your work. You should have 12 turns per wire, for a total of 36 turns.

Testing and soldering the toroid

Construction and testing:

1. Feed the ends of the wires through A1, B1, C1, and A2, B2, C2 on the other end. DO NOT TRIM the wires yet!
2. Remove a bit of the enamel from the ends of the wire. Where the wire is NOT in contact with the through hole it is passing through.
3. Use an ohm meter to check that you have continuity between A1 and A2, B1 and B2, and C1 and C2.
4. Now, carefully trim the wires, and remove enamel so that the wires will contact the through holes.
5. Solder connections.
6. Test continuity from BNC center to J4 - Antenna.
7. Test continuity from BNC ground to C1 and J3 - CP.

Note: the spudger can be used to evenly space the wire around the toroid.

BNC

1. Solder the BNC to the board.
2. Check the transformer with a nanoVNA and 450 Ohm resistor.